Build Your Own DIY CNC Router with Our CNC Router Kit and CNC Spare Parts !

The Best CNC Router Kit Machine for Sale in South Africa...the Best Hobby CNC Router...

The Best CNC Router Kit for Sale in South Africa – Designed with precision and strength in mind, in a sexy double-wide format that is capable of milling Aluminium plate with light cuts. Featuring easy to source off the shelf Openbuilds Parts in an adaptable design; dare I say, reduce its
width for a stronger machine. Just add your unique imagination by modifying the design, tossing in some more parts or by making your own plates with this capable Hobby CNC Machine. Part of the fun is adding your individual touch to the
build for your own special requirements. Who knows where that might lead you and the brilliant ideas you will come up with!
• 750 mm x 330 mm (29.5” x 13”) X&Y axis cut area.
• Usable cut depth is dependent on how you mount your spindle/router, bit length used and spoil board height. But as a ballpark measurement you are looking at 1 inch (25 mm) material. The Z working height is over 2 inches for deep carving.
• The physical footprint is 1000 mm x 500 mm (with the moving Y table protruding out about 170 mm at full travel, front and back) with the High Torque Steppers sticking out about 140 mm from the frame at the back. Maximum Height ( Z-axis fully up) is about 630 mm.
• All the precise Acme Lead Screws are faced away from flying chips to help keep them clean.
• Outside mounted Xtreme Solid V-Wheels™ used throughout for easy on machine adjustment, tuning and strength.
• Doubled up and adjustable Acme Nut blocks on Y and X axes with an Anti-Backlash Nut Block on the Z axis to reduce/remove backlash.
• Strong and accurate C-Beam™ and V-Slot™ Linear Rail with the new heavy duty C-Beam™ Gantry Plate XLarge used for all Actuators.
• Openbuilds Router / Spindle Mount (71 mm inside diameter) designed for the Bosh Colt Router; but with some additional shimming, it is also suitable for the Dewalt 611 Router and the 0.8 kw Chinese Spindles (65 mm diameter).

“Putting It All Together”

Like most built things, there are a billion ways to put something together, this is just my take on it, with lots of pictures
and just enough words to give you an idea. Have a look and if you find a better way to do it and there will be, please
share in the build discussion to help the other builders out there.
To make it easy, I’ve broken it down into bite-sized bits, that make bigger bits..”from little things big things grow”. Just be
thankful you’re not in some wacky parallel universe where you just have to blink your eyes and it puts it all together for
you… “there definitely wouldn’t be any fun or sense of accomplishment in that, would there?”

“Turning little of bits awe into something awesome"


• 8mm Open End Wrench (two would be handy)
• 3mm, 2.5mm & 2mm Allen Wrenches
• Square (a little engineer square is perfect)
• M5 0.8 metric Tap (HSS Intermediate) or M5 Drill Tap from the Openbuilds Part Store
• 5mm drill bit
• 10mm drill bit
• Cordless Drill
• Flat Metal File
• Hacksaw 32TDI
• 80 & 120 grit Wet and Dry Sand Paper might be handy
• Measuring “stick”/ tape at least 1meter in length and a short one as well would be handy
• Quick action clamps and a vice would be very handy
• Masking Tape and containers to store the little things that are easily lost
• Some of those little disposable shot glasses, one for WD40 and the other to celebrate
• Marker and scribe (Exacto blade or sharpened nail will do)
• Wood Glue for MDF
• A flat work surface will be your friend!

“Stay Safe, use appropriate safety gear and follow safe work practices”

“The 7Ps”
Prior Planning &
Preparation Prevents Piss
Poor Performance

The Cast Corner Brackets are
designed for inline joints like in a
picture frame, but can be used in
crossing joints with just a little
modification to make this kind of joints
sit flush and strong like the buttress of
a tree.
You will need a flat metal file and
ideally a vice to make the job easier.
A Benchtop Belt / Disc sander makes
the job very easy; just don’t manicure
your nails to the quick.

File off those annoying little nubs on
one side (highlighted) flush with that
side. Prepare eighteen (18) Cast
Corner Brackets like this and put aside
for the moment. This needs to be
done for the crossing joints in the build
so these sit nice and flush to make
strong neat joins.

While you’re at it, practice keeping the
file parallel to the face of the Cast
Corner Brackets. The Trick is to keep
your elbows and or wrists at the same
level/plane of your workpiece like
they’re sliding along imagery rails.

To make the squaring up of your build
easy and ultimately the performance
of your machine accurate as possible,
you will need to make sure all your
extrusions ends are square. Likewise,
the 250 mm, 500 mm and 1000 mm
lengths of C-Beam and V-Slot need to
be the same length. It doesn’t matter if
they are slightly longer or shorter, just
exactly the same length with square
ends. The squarer the ends, the
easier it will all go together and the
better your machine, so spend a little
time on this part, it will be worth it in
the long run.

Well, I lie a little, the one 1000 mm 20×40 V-Slot will need to be cut down to
960 mm or just a tad less to make fitting easy. Note that this measure is
dependent on the length that the 1000 mm C-Beam ends up; – 40 mm.
In reality, you will only need to make two of the 250 mm C-Beams exactly the
same length (Frame uprights) the odd one out will end up being used for the Z
axis actuator. So make you job easier and use the closest pair and just make
the other one nice and square.

When filing the ends of the extrusions
to same length and square, try to vary
your angles of approach and check
often with a square. Its a slow process
but you will get there. Marking the end
of the shortest extrusion or low points
with a marker pen will give you a
strong visual indication when you’re
gone too far with the filing. Test your
work by laying a piece of extrusion on
a flat surface and bringing the piece
you’re working on in at right angles
and butting it against the side; there
shouldn’t be any gaps.
If you have a Mill, trued up Drop Saw
or Disc Sander, you should know what
to do, to get it close, but finish with a
file and square for best results.

Measure what you ended up with after
squaring the 1000 mm lengths of CBeam
and 20×60 V-Slot. Use that
measurement and subtract 40 mm if
you like sailing close to the wind and
having an extremely tight joint or
41mm if you just want things to go
together easily. If you make it even
just a fraction too long, it’s not going to
go together.
“Measure twice cut once”

Using a square mark this
measurement on the 20×40 V-Slots
top and side faces. Marking the V-Slot
with a dark thick marker then scribing
through that mark with a pointy sharp
thing will give you a clear line to follow.
A couple of blocks clamped along the
sidelines can help guide your cut.
Take it slowly and let the hacksaw
teeth do the cutting.
File the cut end flat and square and
you’re done.

Note: Only tighten the M5 screws less than a 1/4 turn from snug otherwise you will strip the threads.

Tap the untapped holes in the ends of two non-Z axis 250mm C-Beams and the four lengths of 20×60 V-Slot. Use
Aluminium tapping fluid if you’ve got it, though WD 40 or Kero will do just fine, just use something. Aluminium is sticky
stuff, so try to keep your Tap clean between taps to make the job easier with better results. This is where a shot glass
filled with WD 40 comes in handy to dip your tap and a short sharp blow between taps should be enough to clean the
Aluminium chips off.
What works for me is to go in as straight as possible, pushing two to three full clockwise turns in then backing it out a
turn anti-clockwise to break the chips and repeat until you are at the required depth (~15mm) then go a bit deeper to be
safe. The hardest part is getting it started straight, so bevelling the entrance hole a little with a counter sunk bit or an
over-sized drill bit helps. Starting it off is kind of like how you start a wood screw… Push and turn a quarter turn at the
same time, then repeat until it bites. Sight straight down your tap and extrusion to see if you’re going in straight, then
adjust if needed. Note: little taps will break in a heartbeat and with little force, so if you’re forcing it, you’re going in
crooked, so back it out and start again and take your time. If you haven’t done it before, I suggest practising on the bit of
40×20 V-Slot that you cut off, first. Once you get the hang of it, it is easy as. Another easy option is to use an M5 Drill
Tap (available in the Open Builds Part Store) and a cordless drill on low speed, but always lube it up well.

“Little bits for the Frame”

Frame Assemblies

90 Degree Joining Plate Assembly (A1)

MINI BOM (BOM= Bill of materials)
• (4) 90 Degree Joining Plates
• (8) 10 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (12) 15 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (8) Tee Nuts
Makeup two mirrored pairs like in the
picture, with the 15 mm screws down
one edge, the last two holes get 10
mm screws with Tee Nuts. A trick is to
put a bit of tape on the 15 mm screw
heads to keep them together or just
put them aside till needed. Just get the
tee nuts threads started so they are
easy to slide into the V-Slot later.

90 Degree Joining Plate Assembly (A2)

• (6) 90 Degree Joining Plates
• (18) 10 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (12) 15 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (18) M5 Tee Nuts
Makeup three mirrored pairs, with the
10 mm screws with Tee Nuts down
one edge, the last two holes get 15
mm screws.
* A bit of masking tape over the 15 mm
screw heads will keep them in place
for the moment or just put them aside.

Cast Corner Bracket Assembly (B1)

• (8) Cast Corner Brackets with nubs
• (16) 8 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (16) Tee Nuts
Just get the Tee Nuts started so they
slide into the V-Slot easily. Makeup
eight and put aside

Cast Corner Bracket Assembly (B2)

• (18) Cast Corner Brackets (with
nubs filed off on one side)
• (36) 8 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (36) M5 Tee Nuts
File the two nubs off if you haven’t.
Makeup eighteen (18) B2 assemblies
to put aside. To save some time, leave
the Tee Nuts and Screws off the nub
side of eight (8) They will be used for
the Y-Actuators.

Double L Bracket Assembly (C1)

• (2) Double L Brackets
• (8) 8 mm Low profile Screws
• (8) M5 Tee Nut
Makeup two C1 assemblies and put

Black Angle Corner Assembly (D1)

• (4) Black Angle Corner Connectors
• (4) 10 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (4) 8 mm Low Profile Screws M5
• (4) M5 Tee Nuts
Make up four D1 assemblies. The 8
mm Screws get the Tee Nuts.

Spindle/Router Mount Assembly

• (1) Spindle/Router Mount
• (4) D1 assemblies
• 3 mm Allen Wench
Use the 10 mm screws to attach the
D1 assemblies to the threaded mount
holes on the outside like in the picture.

“Building the Frame”

Frame Side Assemblies

• (2) 500 mm 20×60 V-Slot
• (2) 250 mm C-Beam
• (4) A2 assemblies
• (8) B1 assemblies
• (4) B2 assemblies
• 3 mm Allen Wench
• Square

Slide in two B1 assemblies into the
two upper slots in the 500 mm 20×60
V-Slot like in the picture, 100 mm back
from the end and snug them up but
don’t tighten the tee nuts in the slot,
you just need to stop them from
slopping about. Square them up and
locate them centrally in the slot.

Slide in two B2 assemblies with the
filed side down in the middle slot and
loosely snug them down and locate as
in the picture with their centres* being
at 30 mm and 50 mm.
*center (US spelling) centre for the
rest of the English-speaking world.

Add two more B1 assemblies, centring
them in the slots with their back edge
flush and square with the end of the VSlot.
Tighten these two as they will be
what the others are referenced from in
the join.

Lay it on its side on a flat surface and
slide a 250 mm length of C-Beam into
the joint, like in the picture. Some
wiggling and loosening of Tee-nuts
might be needed. Getting all the Teenuts
pointing in the same direction is
the hardest part.

Push down on a flat surface the
loosely joined 60×20 V-Slot and CBeam,
then tighten the connectors,
checking that the joint is nice and
square with connectors centred in
their slots.
If you did a good job squaring up the
C-Beam there will be no gaps where it
buts up tightly with the 60×20 V-Slot

Slide a plate into the side slots, front and back and snug up the Tee-nuts level and square to the ends and top of 60×20 V-Slot

Make up a mirrored copy and your done making the Side Frames.

Front & Back Frame Assemblies

• (2) 1000 mm 20×60 V-Sot
• (4) A1 assemblies
• (12) B2 assemblies
Makeup pair of Front/Back Frame
Remove the screws and tee nuts from
nub side of four B2s and slide them
into the top slot, followed by one intact
B2 (nub side down) and another at the
other end. Then slide in A2 plates.

Makeup a mirrored pair and put the
cast corners aside for attaching to the
Y-Actuators later.

Joining the Frame Base

Remove the tape holding the 15 mm
screws in place on the plates. Then
introduce the corner joint together like
in the picture.
Now join the four corners of the base
frame using the 15 mm screws
through the corner plates into the
tapped holes you spent all that time
getting right.

For a tight joint, tighten the 15 mm
screws into the tapped holes first,
followed by the tee nuts on the plate
finishing with Cast Corner Bracket
Tee-nuts. Check for squareness as
you go.

Use the same tightening order as the front corners.

You will end up with something looking like this.

X-Axis Frame Brace

• (1) ~960 mm 20×40 V-Slot
• (2) C1 Assemblies
Introduce the C1 Double L Bracket
Assemblies into the V-Slot like in the
picture and tighten them flush, square
and centred to the outside ends of the

Introduce the X-Axis Frame Brace into
the inside slots of the Side Frame
Uprights and slide down till flush.
Snug up the Tee-nuts with the brace
flush with the top of C-Beam.

If the 20×40 is a bit tight going into the
mouth of the C-Beam, either lubricate
the joint a little or sneak the 20×40
down to the freezer for a bit of a
snooze and grab an icy pole “frozen
ice on a stick” while you’re there.
While waiting for the 20×40 to reduce
in size in the chill, smooth off the
sharp edges of the C-Beam mouth
with some sandpaper and a little flat

“Basic Structure Complete”

Well done, things are starting to look cool now that you’ve got the basic frame or backbone together before you go any
further, you need to make up the Y-Axis Table, Spoil-board, the wheels and gantry assemblies, but before you move on
check for squareness and tighten all those screws. Don’t tighten them too much or you will strip the threads, less than a
quarter of a turn is all that is needed on these little screws; if your worried that they will come loss, use some Locktite on
the threads.
If you don’t have a square, one of the plates will do in a pinch. Note: Diagonal measurements from frame corners should
be the same if square. That is if the sides of the rectangle are the same lengths.

“Making the Y-Axis Table”

The table is the direct connection between the Y-Axis Actuators and your workpiece and in this set up moves yourworkpiece backwards and forward under your Spindle/Router. It can be made of a variety of materials but in this example, we will use MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) 900 mm x 500 mm x 1/2” doubled up and screwed and glued for strength. MDF is readily available, relatively cheap, easy to work, consistent in thickness and fairly stable when sealed. Please feel free to change how this is made to suit your work needs and how you want to securely attach your work pieces.

The simplest way to mark out the fastening holes to your Y-Gantry plates is to mark a centre line and two more parallel lines 150 mm in from each side. Use these to locate one of the gantry plates which you will use as a template and drill guide using the unthreaded holes arrowed below. Drill straight down with a 5 mm drill bit using the arrowed holes as a guide.

Using a plate as a template, drill through the panel. This board side will be the base face. I did both at the same time,using a straight edge along the top edge of both plates to keep them parallel, then clamped them in place with a 3-foot length of 2’’x1” and two quick action clamps. Just make sure everything is where it should be before you commit. Place the drilled panel on the second panel, aligning the edges flush and use it as a template to drill right through the second panel.

1 am text block. Click edit button to change this text. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit elit, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, dapibus leo pulvinar.Keeping the two boards together, flip the two boards over so you can work on the top face. Dropping in some 30 mmLow Profile Screws to keep the boards aligned, helps. Mark out five more holes, one dead centre by drawing diagona lines from corners and four with their drill centres 50 mm in from each edge on the corners. Using a 5 mm drill bit, drill these right through both boards. Then using a 10 mm bit, countersink the thirteen holes on the top face down 2 mm to 5 mm, so the heads of the Low Profile Screw sit just below the surface of the top face. Spread a thin coat of glue between the two boards and clamp together with five 30 mm Low Profile Screws and Tee Nuts.

Spread a thin coat of glue between the two boards and clamp together with five 30 mm Low Profile Screws and Tee Nuts.

You will end up with sandwiched board something like this.

Make up your Spoil-board using an 800 mm x 400 mm x 1/2” sheet of MDF. Mark four drill centre points, 20 mm in from the edges on each corner. Drill these holes with a 5 mm Drill Bit, right through the Spoil-board. Countersink these hole with a 10 mm Drill Bit half way through the Spoil-board, so the Screw heads are out of harms way.

Centre the Spoil-Board to the Y-Axis Table, using the Y-axis Table corner screws as a reference. Then using the Spoilboard corner holes as a template, drill right through the Y-Axis Table with a 5 mm Drill Bit.

The Spoil-board will be attached to the Y-Axis Table with four 40 mm Low Profile Screws and Tee Nuts, without glue, so it can be removed when too scarred (spoiled) and replaced with a new fresh one. Don’t attach it just yet, it will be attached after the Y-Axis Actuators are attached to the Y-Axis Table. If you want your Y-Axis Table to last this is a good time to give it a coat of paint to seal it. I used a couple of coats of external marine grade satin Polyurethane, using a small paint roller.

“Wheels, Nut Blocks and Spacers”

• (30) Wheel Kits
• (14) 3 mm Aluminium Spacers
• (15) 6 mm Aluminium Spacers
• (12) 9 mm Aluminium Spacers
• (8) 20 mm Aluminium Spacers
• (15) 6 mm Eccentric Spacers
• (12) 20 mm Screws
• (6) 25 mm Screws
• (16) 60 mm Screws
• (6) Acme Nut Blocks
• (1) Anti-Backlash Nut Block

“There will be thirty (30) spare precision shims from the Wheel Kits after building your wheels. Twelve (12) of these will be used for the Spacer Assemblies further down. Lucky you! You will have eighteen spare precision shims at the end of your build”

Build up your thirty (30) WheelAssemblies from the Wheel kits.Popping a bearing in on either side of the polycarbonate wheel, with one
precision shim between the two bearings.

While you’ve got all the eccentrics in the one place, have a look for the 6 mm stamp on the thinnest part. If the 6 mm stamp is hard to see, you can mark that side with a marker pen, so it is easier to see for adjustment later on. Getting on in age and not having the eagle eyes of when I was a pup; I found that marking the opposite flat side with a different colour also helped as this mark will come into view to the outside when adjusted to the beam and to the outside when closest or at the maximum tightest adjustment.

Makeup three (3) Single Std Wheel
Assemblies, using 25 mm Screw, 6
mm spacer, Wheel Assembly, Nylon
Nut. Make up three (3) Single ECC
Wheel Assemblies, by using a 6 mm
Eccentric Spacer instead of the
Aluminium Spacer.

Makeup six (6) Double Std Wheel
Assemblies, using a 60 mm Screw, 6
mm Spacer, Wheel Assembly, 9 mm
Spacer, Wheel Assembly, 6 mm
spacer, hold it together for now with a
Nylon Nut.

Makeup six (6) Double ECC Wheel
Assemblies, using a 60 mm Screw, 6
mm Eccentric Spacer, Wheel
Assembly, 9 mm Spacer, Wheel
Assembly, 6 mm Eccentric Spacer,
hold it together for now with a Nylon

Makeup four (4) Spacer Assemblies
using a 60 mm screw, 1 mm precision
shim, 20 mm spacer, 1 mm precision
shim, 20 mm spacer, 1 mm precision

Put together six (6) Nut Block
Assemblies, using two (20) 20 mm
screws, two (2) 3 mm Spacers, two (2)
Nylon Nuts and one (1) Nut Block.

Put together one (1) Anti-Backlash Nut
Block Assembly using two (2) 20 mm
screws, two (2) 3 mm Spacers, two (2)
Nylon Nuts and one Anti-Backlash Nut
Block kit.

“X-Gantry Assembly”

• (2) XLarge Gantry Plates
• (2) Double Wheel Std Assemblies
• (2) Double Wheel ECC Assemblies
• (4) Spacer Assemblies
• (2) Nut Block Assemblies
• (4) Slot Washers

We will jump straight into the deep end and do the most complicated Gantry first, so you will find out it’s not as difficult as it looks, just a little fiddly.

Attach a pair of Acme Nut blocks to one plate with 20 mm Screws, 3 mm
spacers and Nylon Nuts and snug up the screws and bring them to the out
side of the slots for the moment.

Add four 60 mm Screws through plate, Shim / 20 mm Spacer / Shim / 20 mm
Spacer / Shim. A bit of Tape on the screw heads will hold them in place for

On the other plate introduce the Double Std Wheel Assemblies to the two outside small holes on the corners. Add the Double ECC
Assemblies to the large holes on the outside corners.

Introduce the two sides together, add the four Slot Washers then the Nylon
Nuts and snug them up for now. The 60mm screws with the spacers will be
used to join the X gantry to the Z gantry later on, so leave them taped in place for now.

Sit back for a moment and admire the coolest paperweight on the block. Or more like the building blocks of the awesome linear motion system you’ve
just made.

just the four eccentrics to their closest position, this bringing the bottom wheels above the base of the plates. Push down both plates on a
flat surface, then tighten firmly the wheels assemblies with the standard spacers at the top.

Readjust the eccentrics to their widest position. Introduce a section of CBeam then adjust them back towards the closed position until there is no
play between the wheels and beam. Make sure you adjust the pairs ofeccentrics to exactly the same position. This is where a pair of
wenches and the marks on the eccentrics, makes adjusting easier.

When the wheels are tight to the beam with just a bit of slip of the wheels and
no binding, tighten the double wheel eccentric assembly. The wheels on the
mouth side of the C-Beam will slip more than the ones on the backside when adjusted to the same position, so try to get the best compromise, with
both in the same position. Retest for no play, no binding, with just a little slip on all wheels. Readjust as needed.

“Y-Gantry Assembly”

• (4) XLarge Gantry Plates
• (4) Double Wheel Std Assemblies
• (4) Double Wheel Ecc Assemblies
• (4) Nut Block Assemblies
• (8) Slot Washers
The Y-Gantry assemblies and
adjustment are pretty much the same
as the X-Gantry assembly without the
extra spacers. Makeup two (2) exactly
the same. Please use your newly
gained Ninja skills to work it out.

“Z-Gantry Assembly”

• (1) XLarge Gantry Plate
• (3) Single Std Assemblies
• (3) Single ECC Assemblies
• (1) Anti-Backlash Assemblies
• (4) 10 mm Screws
You should have refined your ninja
skills to put these gantries together by
now, the only difference with this one
is it uses single wheel assemblies
instead of doubles and we are using
the Anti-Backlash Nut Block. Have a
think about which side you want the
eccentrics (are you a lefty or righty?)
and where the nut block ends up on
your machine for ease of adjustment.
A little hack is to attach the nut block
on the two slots at the top for easy on
machine adjustment, which I did on
my build, but I will leave that decision
up to you.

Don’t forget those four 10mm screws located in the unthreaded holes between the wheels. Tape them in place so you don’t lose them, they will join the Z to the X gantry later on.

“Acme Lead Screws & Nut Blocks”

Just a little bit of information about the
stainless steel 8mm Acme Lead
Screws that are used to translate
motor revolution into linear motion.
Tr8*8-2p (4 starts) equates to 8mm of
movement for each full rotation.
While the lead screws are out of the
machine, give them a little love by
cleaning any gunk off, filing or sanding
off any shape edges from the starts of
the threads and hand threading them
through the nut blocks to clear any
milling waste. A little dry lube will result
in a nice smooth movement, which is
a good thing.

Lead Screw Backlash on the X and Y
actuators can be reduced by pushing
the nut blocks together and tightening
them enough to hold them firmly in
place in the adjustment slots, without
crushing and deforming them.

Adjust the Anti-Backlash Nut Block on
the Z with the grub screw, locking it in
place with the lock nut. What you’re
aiming for is no up and down play in
the thread with free and smooth
rotational movement.

“X-Axis Actuator Assembly”

• (1) 1000 mm C-Beam
• (2) B2
• (2) A2
• (2) C-Beam End Plates
• (8) 20 mm Screws
• (2) Ball Bearing 8x16x5
• (2) 8 mm shims
• (2) 8 mm Lock Collars
• (1) 1000 mm Lead Screw
• (1) 1/4” x 8 mm Flexible Coupling

Slide in one B2 into bottom slot of CBeam (filed side), ~ 1.5 mm in from the edge and then snug it up in place. Slide in an A2 into the top slot and snug it up flush with outside edge, square and centred

Attach a C-Beam End Plate using four (4) 20 mm screws and tighten. You should end up with something looking like this.

Turn the beam around and slide on your X Gantry with the eccentrics to the bottom.

Now mirror what you did on the first end. Have a bit of a think about which side you want to have your stepper motor. Having it close to your controller and power supply makes sense.

Introduce the Acme Lead screw, threading it through the C-Beam End Plate > 688Z 8x16x5 Bearing > 8 mm Shim > 8 mm Lock
Collar, then continue to the first Acme Nut Block.
Note: Round side of 8 mm Shim should face bearing on ends of Lead Screw.

Start screwing it through the first Nut Block then up to the second. Loosen the second Nut Block Mounting Screws so you don’t cross thread the
Lead Screw, aiming to keep it to the outside of the slots.

Continue to other end and thread through the Lock Collar > Shim > Bearing > End Plate.

Bring the Lead Screw end Flush with the outside of the End Plate, push the
bearing into the pocket in the End Plate and tighten the Lock Collars grub screw firmly while pinching it all
together. The grub screw needs to fit between the Acme threads not the top
of the thread so rotate the Acme till it does. Do not over tighten the lock
collar or it will strip out the grub screw. A hack is to file a flat on the Acme under the Lock Collar and to add a
couple turns of Teflon tape between the Bearing and Acme to reduce slop
between the Bearing and Acme.

Back to the other end. Back off the CBeam End Plate screws, 1/2 turn from
snug. Pinch the lock Collar and end of Lead screw together, pushing the
bearing into the End Plate and tighten the Lock Collars Set Screw loosely between the Acme thread, rotate the
collar like a nut until snug, then tighten the grub screw firmly. Retighten the End Plate screws, this putting a little pretension on the bearings.

Attach Flex Coupling at least 1mm away from the end plate, so it doesn’t scrape. Tightening the larger set screw first, using a 2.5 mm Allen key, to close the gap and then the little
grub screw to lock it in place with a 2 mm key. Just be careful not to strip these little screws and the little grub screw sits between the Acme thread. This is the side that your Stepper
Motor will attach to. Adjust the Acme Nut Blocks while it is off the frame and easy to do. You just completed your first actuator.

“Being the longest Actuator this Acme Lead Screw is the most prone to whiplash, so adjusting it just right with just a little pretension and not too much is what you are aiming for. What worked for me was to move the X Gantry to one end and over tension, the opposite end, bowing out the Acme Lead Screw a little; then slowly loosen the Lock Collar Grub Screw until the Acme Lead Screw straightens, then retighten the Grub Screw again.” This will only work if you’ve filed a dead flat area on the Acme Lead Screw where the grub screw tightens down to. Take your time to get it right while it’s off the machine and easy to do. If you don’t want to file the Acme use the Collar like a nut with its grub screw between the Acme thread but not tightened”

Introduce the X-Actuator Assembly into the front slots of the C-Beam Frame uprights. The overhangs of the C-Beam End Plates will be a tight fit if the 40×40 is exactly 40 mm shorter
then X actuator C-Beam, making a strong precise join. If it is tight you can
loosen the C-Beam End Plate Screws a little, just remember to retighten
them when it is in place.

Loosen the 40×20 Double L Brackets a little and screw in the four 15 mm screws of the top plates into the CBeam Frame uprights, then square everything up and retighten again,
making sure the C-Beam End Plates butt up tightly with the C-Beam Frame

Looking good :), go on and have a play with the movement of the X. Just
be a little careful not to run the wheels up hard against the top plates or you
will damage them. One of the first mods you might consider is to replace
those top plates with a 120 mm x 40 mm x ~4 mm plate, so you can gain
about 40 mm of extra X travel, reduce the risk of damaging your wheels and
give that top joint a nice finished look 😉

“Y-Axis Actuators”

• (2) 500 mm C-Beams
• (8) B2 assemblies with the 8 mm
screw and Tee Nut removed (these
should be in the top slot of the front
and back frame)
• (2) Y-Gantry Assemblies
• (1) Y-Axis Table Assembly
• (16) 20 mm Low Profile M5 Screws
• (8) 30 mm Low Profile M5 Screws
• (4) C-Beam End Mounts

Add two B2s to the bottom side slots of 500 mm C-Beam and snug up the
Tee Nuts about 1.5 mm in from the edge. Introduce a Y-Gantry Assembly,
then add two more B2s on the other end and snug up 1.5 mm in from that end.

You will end up with something like this.

Attach the C-Beam End Plates with the 20 mm screws.

Make up two. Things are always more fun with company!

Attach the Y-Axis Table with the eight(8) 30 mm screws. Making sure the eccentric side of the Y-gantries is pointing towards the middle.

“ It’s a bit tricky lining up the screws to the plates. I found that standing the table on its edge with just one screw poking through, I was able to move the gantry into place to locate the screw and get it started. Once you get the first one started, the others are easy to locate.”

You will end up with something looking like this. We will call it the Y-Axis Table
Assembly for now. Leave the screws just snug for now.

Introduce the Y-Axis Table Assembly to the frame, hooking the C-Beam end
plates over the front and back of the frame.
Make sure the Tee-Nuts are out of the way. Centre the table (there should be about 10 mm space between the
Table and the Frame Uprights) and
attach the Tee Nuts to the Cast Corner Bracket and loosely snug up.

Slide the table back and forward to locate the table to the frame making
sure the gap between the frame uprights and the table are equal (~ 10 mm each side). The measurements
between the front and back of the Yactuators and the side frame need to be equal.
When satisfied, tighten the Tee Nuts.

On the bad news front, you will have to undo eight screws, now that the YAxis
Table has been located to the frame, to add and adjust the Acme Lead Screws to the Y-actuators easily.
Just make sure the 8 mm screws and Tee-Nuts holding the Cast Corner
Bracket stay fully tightened to the frame and only undo the ones on the Y-actuators.
Once removed, flip it on its back to make it easier to work on and add and
adjust the Acme Lead Screw like you did one the X-actuator.

When you are satisfied the Lead Screws are adjusted the same both sides. move them to the same position on the table and reattach to the frame.

“Z-Axis Actuators”

The pile of bits and pieces is getting pretty small now and the pile of empty bags is getting large as the end of the build is near. So hopefully your worked out the routine, so I won’t slow you down with a Mini BOM (just use what’s left) and I will just show you.

What needed to assemble the Z-Axis Actuator should be pretty straight forward by now.

IJust slide in and attach the Router/ Spindle Assembly flush with the bottom of the C-Beam, add the Z Gantry Assembly then attach the CBeam End Plates with 20mm screws

It will look something like this, ready to add the lead screw like you did with the X and Y Actuators.

Join the Z to the X with the four 60mm spacer screws of the X and the four 10mm Screws of the Z and tighten, to
make one.

Add your Stepper Motors using 55mm Screws with the 40mm Spacers between and tighten them, then tighten the grub screws of the Flexible
Coupler up nice and tight, being careful not strip the threads.

Repeat for all the other Actuators,
attach the Spoil-board and the mechanical side of the build is done. Woo Hoo. Congratulations…where did
you put that clean shot glass? Just needs wiring and brains now. 🙂

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